This trip happened in 2018, before Tulum became what it is today. Restaurants and experiences may have changed, but the itinerary holds up.
Tulum had been sitting on my Pinterest board for way too long. I’d seen enough photos to be a little skeptical — can it actually look like that? After a quick trip to find out, I can confirm it’s the real thing. At least the 2018 version was.

The trip was a last-minute add-on to a Cancun birthday weekend over 4th of July. After a few days of tequila and the kind of energy Cancun brings — fun, but a lot — I was so ready for something slower. Tulum delivered exactly that.
Getting There
The drive from Cancun runs about an hour and a half. I rented a car which worked out fine, but honestly next time I’d take the bus — the rental companies pile on insurance fees that make it way more expensive than it should be.
Tulum is a small town. One main road with restaurants, shops, and bars is basically the whole downtown. My Airbnb was in a neighborhood called La Valeta, about a 10-minute bike ride from the main strip. Grab a bike rental as soon as you arrive — you’ll use it constantly.
Day 1: Arrive and Get Oriented

I got in late afternoon, dropped my bags, and headed straight out to explore. First evening was low key — a stop for frozen yogurt at Prieto Tulum, a drink or two, and a slow ride through downtown to get the lay of the land. The perfect intro to the pace of the place.

Day 2: The Beach
The beach is where Tulum earns its reputation and an early start is worth it — better light, fewer people.
Parking on the beach strip runs on an informal system where you pay a hotel lot attendant to use their guest parking. From there I grabbed a bike because the strip is much longer than it looks.
First stop was Matcha Mama — I’ll be honest, it didn’t live up to the hype for me. The iced matcha was fine and the swing photos are as cute as advertised, but treat it as a photo moment and move on.
The highlight of the day was brunch at Coral Hotel — understated, beachfront, and exactly the vibe I was looking for. Ceviche right on the beach, a couple of hours to just sit in the sun. That’s the Tulum I came for.

Day 3: Cenotes
The cenotes are non-negotiable and the way you experience them makes all the difference. I booked a small group tour through Airbnb with a local guide named Didier — easily the best decision of the whole trip.

We met in Chemuyil — a quiet town about 20 minutes from Tulum — grabbed bikes, and rode into the jungle with Didier leading the way.
First stop was Cenote Xunaan-Ha — a remote open-air cenote with the clearest water and tiny fish swimming all around you. The rest of the group jumped from a high ledge. I took the low rock. Still amazing.

From there we rode deeper into the jungle to a cave. Inside with only flashlights, we hunched through a narrow passage until it opened up to an underground cenote. The water was cold and full of minerals — the Mayans believed it had healing properties, and honestly standing in it, that felt completely believable. We covered ourselves in the mineral deposits and floated in the dark. One of the most surreal experiences I’ve had traveling.
We cut the tour a little short thanks to a full-on mosquito attack, which meant riding past a hidden Mayan ruin rather than stopping — still incredible to see it standing after all these hundreds of years. Back in Chemuyil, Didier walked us through the history and culture the town has worked hard to preserve. Worth every minute.
That night I wanted to go all out for a last dinner and Taboo delivered — beachfront Mediterranean, craft cocktails, live music, and a donkey that roams the property. Perfect last night energy.

Restaurants Worth Knowing
In Town
- Burrito Amor — burritos wrapped in banana leaves, super cute spot
- El Camello Jr. — local favorite, totally authentic
- Antojitos La Chiapaneca — busy, fast, great tacos and a solid condiment bar
- Il Bacaro — open air Italian when you’re ready for a break from tacos. The salmon alfredo was really good
- Prieto Tulum — coffee, frozen yogurt, great bike stop
On the Beach
- Taboo — save this for a splurge night. Mediterranean food, cocktails, live music, the donkey
- Coral Hotel — understated and exactly right. Beach dining without the scene
- Matcha Mama — cute stop for a photo
- Origami Gelato — basil lemon for me, mango ginger for my travel companion. Both were great
A Note on Tulum Now
This trip was 2018, when Tulum still felt like a find. A new international airport opened in 2023, development has accelerated, and the overtourism conversation is very real. The cenotes and the culture are still there — the quiet, under-the-radar feeling has shifted though.
During the trip, we ate out a ton! Check out the full list of restaurants, down at the bottom of this post.
If you’re planning a Yucatán trip and want something with that original Tulum energy, Bacalar is worth a serious look — a lake town a few hours south that still feels like a discovery. Either way, book a local cenote guide and get off the beach strip long enough to experience what makes the region special.




xoxo, jackie
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